Winter Camp in Aqaba: Baqaa Orphan Welfare Association

This week is the Winter Camp for the Orphan Welfare Association (OWA) – the organization where I volunteer on the weekends (you may remember my past stories of crazy yet adorable 4 to 10 year olds?).

The annual Winter Camp is a week-long program in Aqaba for nearly 80 boys, orphans who live in Baqaa Refugee Camp. The girls of the OWA have never participated in the past, with the far-away sleepover trip viewed as too difficult for this conservative community. HOWEVER thanks to the dedication of the volunteers, who insisted upon making it possible for the girls (and, might I add, are also 80% men who themselves live in Baqaa Camp), a two-day program was hosted for the first time for 24 girls, ranging from 4 to 14 years old.

And…. I got to chaperone!

In two days, we visited Petra, toured Wadi Rum, had a 7fla (party) in a Bedouin Camp, took a boat tour of Aqaba, visited Aqaba’s museum and aquarium, and played on the beach. It was the first time any of the girls had gone to these places — the most famous places in Jordan. Needless to say, it was actually the best time ever.

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There were 4 of us volunteers leading the girls and I really can’t even explain how much fun I had in only 48 hours. Instead, I will just share anecdotes/insights/ramble a bit.

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1) Cross-cultural exchange: “Miss Mary Mack”

Pre-trip, I spent awhile trying to remember what exactly I did as a child. I usually end up having to Google the details (what are the hand motions to go with B-I-N-G-O?). This time, I was focused on camp songs and games. As it turns out, the BEST thing I did was take the time to practice “Miss Mary Mack.”

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I taught some girls the game within the first 15 minutes of our 4 hour long bus ride to Petra… and I am not joking when I tell you that I played it almost a million times since that moment. I played with every single girl… I played every time we were on the bus… I played every time we paused a minute in between programs… I taught the song to girls so they could play themselves… I improvised to make it a 4 person game… I will NEVER forget that song. If that’s my only contribution to cross-cultural exchange, so be it.

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2) Cultural difference: Arabic 7eflas aka Arabic Parties

I could not get over the fact that despite being SO similar to our camps in many ways, there were still cultural influences that make them different.

My favorite difference is the “Arabic party.”

What does that mean? Let me explain through example..

(A) We arrive at a Bedouin Camp in Wadi Rum and before dinner is our “party.” This means that we all go to an open space, someone starts playing arabic music, and we all dance. Some dance dabke (traditional Arabic dance) in a big circle; some dance in small groups; boys put their friends on their shoulders and dance around; small girls are tossed in the air laughing. Everyone has a ball.

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(B) We are waiting for our boat in Aqaba, with about 30 min to kill. Someone brings out the drum again.. first the girls have their turn; we sing Arabic songs and dance .. then the boys, who chant and dance even more than we do. Whats also worth noting is that many of the kids know how to play and ALL of them have the traditional songs committed to memory.

(C) We get on our boat for Aqaba. Its been described as a “2 hour tour” of the Red Sea. The kids are only supposed to sit in their seats and look out at the water – because they are little/a big group and we’re nervous for them. What does it turn into? 2 hours of blasting Arabic music with everyone up dancing and singing together.

and finally,

(D) We’re on our way home. Supposedly tired from our whirlwind trip. Then the bus driver turns on the music… and all of a sudden: there go the girls, swinging their hips, hands raised and twirling in the air, imitating their best belly dancing moves.

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It is actually WAY more fun and carefree than most similar things I’ve done in the States… which is funny because I feel like often people think they “won’t like the culture” in this particular corner of the world… or that it is too conversative and by extension, boring… and simply, that is not true.

PS. I wish I had any photos or videos of these parties… but I was too busy DANCING.

 

3) Universal value: Making children happy

The people involved with this organization are easily some of the best people I know. All the volunteers and children are truly a big family. These kids are facing a hard life.. without a tactful way of saying it: they are refugees, poor, and on top of all that, lost either their father – mother – or both. Yet they find so much love with this Association.

All the girls held each others’ hands as we strolled through the Aqaba market – me and my group slept like spoons with our three beds pushed together – each girl offered everyone on the bus a bite of every snack they open – Huthafa and Hamzeh carried the two littlest sisters on their shoulders for 75% of the trip – the girls “self” disciplined their group (come on Rania, 3ab, Miss said its time for bed) with the older taking care of the younger, regardless of whose actually related – and really, it was impossible to form a single-file line when all the girls just want to walk holding “Miss”‘s hand.

One bus ride, two sisters fell asleep and spent the whole ride snuggled under my arms and in my lap as I hummed quietly to them. I couldn’t help but think to myself: I feel like I have kids… and really, how lucky I am to find a family like this here in Jordan.

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There’s no place like home ..

How am I already back in Amman? That was easily the fastest 10 days of my life.
(Though included in those days was also the slowest day of my life..
amman–>tel aviv–>massive security–>layover–>new york .. a story for another day)

Thank you everyone for an amazing Christmas and New Year :)

Some life updates:
– Our cat, Tigger, is alive.
[Though I still need to send the next “kitty support” payment to our cat sitter]
– We moved into a new house! Its a townhouse on a golf course and its lovely!
– All the cousins are OLD! Maria is taller than me (I knew this day would come) – Brendan is more mature than me – and Nia is walking around like an independent woman .. though still succumbs to tickling ..

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There were plenty of more antics and adventures..
never a dull moment during Christmas at Nana’s!

– ALSO! There was snow! and a lot of it. Luckily, it didn’t (really) ruin our plans… the Whittaker/Clausen/Bremser family prevailed and managed to take over a restaurant for brunch :)

– In the biggest update of all, my home friends are famous! Yes, that’s right, our brief 10 minutes of fame [from that time Ted something or other interviewed us about the shark sighting in Chatham] has NOT ended.. now we have muscians in our group!

To remind you all of the holidays… here is an introduction ..
the Anna and Hayley Christmas Spectacular!

Anna and Hayley’s Christmas Spectacular: Part One from Julie Whittaker on Vimeo.

Anna and Hayley’s Christmas Spectacular: Part Two from Julie Whittaker on Vimeo.

Gets me every time .. I can’t wait to show this to my Petra U students and make them sing along .. Hayley and Anna, prestige worldwide ?

Anyway, there are so many more updates and fun memories I want to post.. but yet its making me miss home and its late here before my first “back to work” day tomorrow! So some last things I guess..

– I didn’t forget arabic during my stay! #win
– but I never found an engagement dress for Nisreen… #fail
– I saw Chris Hearne, TWICE!
– Jackie helped me buy nearly 100 books for basic/little kid English classes.. AND i managed to keep my suitcase underweight
– Melissa turned 23 !
– I visited the Fairfield girls’ apartment BEFORE greg, Mr. NYC, did

and..
– I had an AMAZING TIME!!

Three Things

My blog has looked very political and sad lately. Not suprisingly, of course, as that is how the world has looked lately too. But I figured its about time for an uplifting post! So here goes..  Three Things that made me happy this week. 

1) EMILY came to visit.. and we had an amazing time. I am too tired to regale you with all the stories (inshallah I will eventually), but quick synopsis…

Tuesday: Petra University and exploring Amman

Wednesday: Aqaba and Wadi Rum

Thursday: Petra

Friday: Baqa’a Refugee Camp and Nisreen’s House (girls’ night)

We quite literally, did it all.

2) I got to see my family on Thanksgiving!

The only thing Emily and I were not able to do was go to any of the Fulbright Thanksgiving parties. #exhausted

HOWEVER, it still felt like a great Thanksgiving because, as Emily and I sat and ate our pizza (from Pizza Hut, no less) … I skyped with my family!

I miss you all so much! I loved feeling like I was a part of the day :)

3) As always, my classes at Baqa’a were amazing.

What’s funny is that my classes at Baqaa were actually REALLY hard this week. I struggled with classroom management and working with the limited resources more than usual this week.

Yet…. I still left smiling.

I look forward to my Friday / Saturday classes more than anything else in my week. Maybe this is why —->

Note: the assignment was to write about your day

(When do you wake up? Then what do you do, etc)

Comprehension of the activity: Low …

Level of heart melting: High

So there you have it.

I’m still sad about the world crumbling around us… but it feels a little brighter now.

Girls walking to school in Gaza — which reopened Saturday, for the first time since the conflict started

“Even if I knew that tomorrow the world would go to pieces,

I would still plant my apple tree.”

– Martin Luther

Learning from my Students: Family in Jordan

This post will be the first in a mini-series I have decided to call “Learning from my Students” … in which I share snippets of the things I am learning from my students (Petra U, Jesuit Refugee Services, and Al Baqaa).

So, to start… about family!

I made an interesting cultural faux pas when I organized a basic speaking activity around family at Petra University. After reviewing vocabulary and neccessary grammar, I asked every student to describe their family to the group – then I asked follow up questions to keep them talking. For one male student, I asked him what his family’s names are… “Ok, you have two sisters? What are their names?” “Yes, your mother? What is her name?”

This is the point of the story when all my Arab friends roll their eyes at me and laugh… because in many Arab families, people do not tell their mother or sister’s names to strangers – particularly strange men. I gather the idea is about privacy and protecting their female relatives — I can see some correlation to the insults present in our culture’s “your momma” jokes. So needless to say, I had really put my student on the spot… but luckily we all have a pretty good rapport so he and some other students explained the cultural difference to me. Its not true of all Arabs, in fact many students shared this without hesitation, but it is true that some Arabs / Jordanians / Muslims (I’m not sure where this particular cultural tendency derives from) do not share this to a group of strangers or “new friends.”

NEXT: Family and independence

As we talked about differences in university student life at Petra, our conversation rolled back to family. There are major differences in family life and relationships here. The typical “common knowledge” or stereotype is that Jordanians and Arabs in general have stronger familial bonds than Americans. People here will live with their families until they get married — then after they are married, maybe they live in an apartment upstairs — plus they see their extended family every week, if not every day.

My students asked me how often I see my extended family… and I thought of KK/Mikey/Brendan/AJ — Maria/John/Sean/Nia — Re, Gumpy, and Nana (etc etc)… and its what, probably once every two months? over the summer? Let alone during the school year… then its just holidays. One of the things I admire most about Arab culture is the high volume of family time… that is one of the things I want to bring my into my life, a little piece of Arab culture that sticks with me even when I leave.

To be fair though, many Arabs act the same way we do — usually because of work. It is common to hear about families with a son in Saudi or Dubai or even in America. People move, generally speaking, because the work opportunities are so much better in these other places. Yet, then the family is split — only seeing each other on holidays or a few times a year.. just like us.

Some students asked if I was lonely. The idea of living at university “alone” seemed sad to them… (“I’m too social” – one student said). Then I explained that at university, I lived in the same building as 200 other students.. with my best friends. So “lonely” was not really a feeling I felt —- although missing family was of course always part of the year … plus independence.

Many of my students talked about the lack of independence due to the familial culture. Students live at home with their whole family usually. This can make it hard for some students to become “responsible” – and leads to some students being “controlled by their family.” That is less of a problem for us.

Then again, as some students shared, it is not unheard of to live alone. One of my students is studying and working here — alone — and sending money home to his family in Nablus (Palestine). There are plenty of exceptions, like him, but generally speaking – our independence and responsibility comes at a much earlier age due to our looser family living.

So, there’s the start of the mini-series. I figured perhaps you would like to learn with me … and being so immersed with young people and mandatory conversation practice, I am bound to learn loads!! :)

“Nana’s Comics” make their debut at a new university…

As context for this post: my Nana loves snail mail and always clips comics to send me.. I was always “that girl” at university who had mail in her mail box.. and I always had the best things to hang on my bedroom wall.. literally enough comics to make a book.

SO I did make a book!

My thought was that a) i want to keep these comics forever, and b) they will be so useful for teaching English language in a fun way, while also showing insight into American culture! I chose my favorite comics, plus pictures of dorchestAH (Nana’s hometown), and quote clippings (usually about chocolate) to make into a book! I organized the comics by theme:

– Family Dynamics

– Making fun of Boston Accents and/or Irish quotes

– Student Life (subcategories include: having a messy room — the student loan/debt crisis)

– Politics – Religion – Technology

…………etc, etc, etc

And needless to say, Petra University already loves it! I brought it in this morning to leave in my office/”The English Club” room — and I offhandedly mentioned it at a department meeting. IMMEDIATELY everyone wanted to see it and now its in the process of being copied into packet/worksheet form for all the teachers to use :)

So there you have it! Nana’s comics, making their debut at a new university…!

PS Nana, I was going to email you this story — but you are easily my most visible blog follower, all the blog comments feel like snail mail to me here! — so I thought I might as well just share for everyone in a public forum to make sure the thank you was well heard :) :) THANK you! Love you!

Things I enjoyed doing this week…

1) Exploring Amman’s Roman ruins by day..

 

2. Rocking out at a concert on Amman’s Roman ruins by night…

(Mashru’a al Leila – Lebanese band – atop Roman Ruins)

3. Playing soccer and basketball at a Sports Clinic for refugee youth

4) Trying out a Jordanian Amusement park (most dangerous thing I’ve done so far?)

5) And trying out some Jordanian BBQ!

Other fun adventures, without photo evidence, include:

– Hosting our first housewarming party in the new apartment

– Watching the first episode of “Forbidden Love” – a Turkish drama (oddly reminiscent of the OC) dubbed over in Syrian ammiyah

– Meeting Bayan’s family for kanafeh and tea

– Going to Petra University for the first time!!

Mama and Baba Reunion: “we (still) love you toooo much”

Today is my second full day here in Amman, but I’ll skip right to a hilarious and heartwarming story about my reunion with Mama and Baba. As a preface, Mama and Baba are the older couple I lived with (along with my roommate, Hannah) during my study abroad semester in Jordan. They were wonderful and loved us “toooo much” but they were hard to keep in touch with over the last 2 years. Save some postcards, I never spoke directly with them at all — though I did relay my Fulbright news to them through their nephew, via facebook.

Anyway, this story has two parts….

PART ONE
Scene: On Rainbow Street with some Fulbrighters, exchanging phone numbers now that we finally have local mobiles.

I decided would be a good day to try to see Mama and Baba. My orientation starts tomorrow, which should be busy, plus Friday/Saturday is the weekend in Jordan – so today is their free time too. Thus as soon as I set up my phone, I grabbed the number I had saved as “Baba Mobile” and gave it a ring.

To my surprise, someone picked up right away! And also to my surprise, I realized I did not know my host father’s real name… just Baba, the Arabic term for Dad… which left me saying: “Ahalan! Hello! Is this… Baba??”

The conversation was hard to hear and didn’t make much sense to me.. and the man on the line didn’t sound like Baba. Yet, he responded to that name and seemed to know me. The only thing I could make out was “saa’a wahada” – one hour. So I decided I would just go to Mama and Baba’s house in one hour…. As seemed to be the plan.

PART TWO
Scene: In the cab to Mama and Baba’s House in Khalda

I loved how readily I remembered Khalda. In Jordan, you direct cabs by landmarks — so for me, I was ecstatic to remember “Top and Top” supermarket and “Huubs Paradise” Bakery then remember exactly the turn down M&B’s side street.

But something weird kept happening… “Baba” kept calling me in the cab. And didn’t seem to understand why I was on my way to Khalda…

No matter — I continued on route undeterred. I recognized the house right away, and saw the door open. “Mama…? Baba….?”

And there, of course, was Mama – cooking up a storm in the kitchen. When she saw me, she lit up – called for Baba – then embraced me.. “ah julie!! we miss you tooooo much!”

From there, it was just like being back in my homestay — we sat and exchanged stories over one of Mama’s delicious dinners.

Yet for some reason, my phone kept ringing! And FINALLY I put it together when Baba said,  “Julie, this is such a wonderful surprise! We are lucky to be here when you visited! You must take our phone number so you can call if you need anything.” ………….because, as it turns out, I had COMPLETLEY called the wrong number and never spoken to my Baba.

Who knows who this random Arab man I called is, and how perplexed he must be that he has a long lost American daughter…

CONCLUSION

But really, this is what I love about Jordan – and Jordanians/Palestinians/Arabs in general. Here I was worrying that Mama and Baba wouldn’t remember me… but then when I show up COMPLETELY unexpected and uninvited, they not only remember me but also welcomed me in as if I was still part of their family.

Which, by the way, they made sure to remind me I still was a part of. Mama asked me all about my family and giggled when I gave her a photo of me and Greg (“aahh habibatik!”) — Baba wanted to know everything about the Fulbright and when I would be the next ambassador to Jordan — they both wanted to know all about what Hannah and Dan were up to, as well as “that nice girl who stayed with us” (Julia!) — not to mention Mama still had a photo of Grandma Re and my cousins (the triplets) that I gave her hung up on the fridge.

When we left Jordan, we all joked about how maybe our families would forget us…..but Mama and Baba proved us wrong entirely. It only took one night in Amman and already I was thrown back into their family. The evening moved from dinner at their home to a family gathering at their son’s home , with Mama and Baba proudly introducing me to their friends & catching me up on the family matters I missed in my absence.

Before learning about my Fulbright, I would have never guessed that I’d see Mama and Baba again — and even after I knew I was coming back, I never would have guessed I’d still slip in so seamlessly as part of the family. Anyway, I’m happy I did. Nice to have my عائلة الأردنية  (Jordanian family) back again!

تصبح على خير

Good night!