A drop in the ocean

This Christmas, half my family got “in your name donations”… meaning I bought winter gloves ($1 / pair) and fuzzy socks/slippers ($1.50 / pair) in Jordan for kids in Za’atari I know need them. I put this together with some photos, and it made for a touching gift.

I was discussing this with a friend, and she relayed a common sentiment: the love of donations like the above, where you see the result (50 girls got a pair of mittens and socks for the winter), and the lackluster other option, “donating to big organizations that already have so much money.”

I think this is a pretty common opinion.. and all the more frustrating because its patently false. I watched the below video — images of refugees walking across the Jordanian border, story of a paralyzed 2 year old heading with her family to live in Za’atari Camp — and was reminded again how massive the need is, the need that these “big organizations” are seeking to respond to.

UNHCR recently appealed for a record high 6.5 billion in funding to deal with the Syrian crisis. That’s a huge amount of money… but in the 4th year of this tragic war, its expected that the humanitarian community will be providing aid to 3/4ths of the Syrian population. That’s a shocking number – 3/4ths of a population in need of help.

To make it more clear, the same friend hands me a “Christmas gift” check for $120 for the kids in our programs. I am overjoyed (that’s a lot of money coming from a recent grad), and thank her, “It seems like something small, but $120 is 240 pairs of mittens.” My friend laughed, “No need to spend it all on mittens.” But the follow up response, of course, put it in perspective: there are 100,000 Syrians in Za’atari Camp.. 60,000 children… and 240 pairs means that 59,760 children – in Za’atari Camp alone – don’t receive any.

Anyway, the fact of the matter is the reason these organizations appear to “have so much money” … is because they need so much money… and then some.

Another common opinion, it seems, is that the need is so huge, what’s the use of a small donation? Again, an idea that couldn’t be farther from the truth. For one great donation idea, check out this new campaign – a partnership between Mercy Corps and a grassroots volunteer group in Jordan – We Care About Syria.

To imagine how far the money can stretch:

• $3 will provide a child with art materials and toys wrapped in a bright bag to look like a gift rather than a hand-out.
• $5 will provide a family with a hygiene package of essentials
• $15 will provide a mattress
• $30 will provide a whole kitchen cooking and eating set for a family of 6
• $35 will provide three blankets
• $100 will provide a child’s wheelchair; so many children have suffered injuries in this war
• $850 will buy a house – yes, we can buy and install a prefabricated house for a refugee family living outside of the camps in make-shift tents. A farmer has donated some land and the families in need identified.

Anyway, I suppose my other point all along has been, a drop in the ocean is still a drop.

Winter Ups and Down

Well, it snowed in Jordan!

I can’t help but feel constant ups and downs about the early start to winter.

I’ll share some of them in attempts of explanation..

1) Being snowed in for an all-night Christmas party at Dan’s house.

2) Watching little kids building a snowman in a neighborhood of Homs in Syria – which has been blockaded by the regime for 500, thus left to face the early winter storm with no gas or electricty.

As the citizen journalist describes the dire situation in the neighborhood, the kids interrupt, talking amongst themselves “Now put the eyes! Yeah, just use the snow.”

More at: Syria Direct

3) Venturing out in the snow to gather the necessary supplies for 3 days of movies, hot chocolate and kahlua, and snuggling.

4) Thinking of friends in Zaatari sitting in caravans, or worse, in tents without heaters or winter clothes as strong winds and heavy rain rips through the camp.

More at: Syria Direct

5) Arriving in Boston, happy to be home for a White Christmas.

6) Reading about refugees in Lebanon, who are all the more worse off from snowfall and lack of resources.

A flock of small boys trotted by. “Bring us clothes!” one shouted. “We are cold!” called another.

More at: NY Times

I guess its inevitable that I couldn’t be happier or sadder that winter is finally here. It seems appropriate to return back to some favorite lines from Mahmoud Darwish, Think of Others:

As you return home, to your home, think of others
(do not forget the people of the camps).

As you sleep and count the stars, think of others
(those who have nowhere to sleep).

One of my favorites from Zaatari wearing his new winter hat – which he chose himself during our distribution of over 4,000 donated hats.

He was pretty happy with himself and, needless to say, warm.

You can donate to the UN emergency response here

Female Slam Poetry in Jordan

Nadine, as per usual, writes a compelling piece about Jordanian women in Amman’s Spoken Word scene.

Its further proof of Jordan’s confusing identity; the reality of so many different types of people and lifestyles darting across this region that make it impossible to speak about Jordan – the Middle East – or Arabs in any sweeping generalizations.

As tonight’s poetry reading draws to a close, Aysha speaks her own manifesto of youth. The emotion is raw, but no one looks away as her piece crescendos.

“It was my friends who hugged their canvases and wept for brothers killed in the doom of Arab revolution, and guilted over the fire exit of their breath,” she raps, her words echo within the narrow walls.

“But I still have my dictators falling, as the Arab Spring fireworks into a festive autumn. So for all I care me and my friends are the sunrise.”

Read all here —> Jordan’s Underground Female Slam Poetry Scene

Jackie in Jordan

 

Jackie has graced Jordan with her presence for a month…

She ate at Jafra, Al Quds, Habibeh, and Hashems, visited Petra and Wadi Rum, floated in the Dead Sea, taught a Language Club at the OWA summer camp, experienced long Ramadan days, broke fast with the OWA students, spent a long weekend in Palestine, and ate 5 servings of Maqlubeh at Wael’s house.

Needless to say, she did it all.

Yet.. I STILL WISH SHE STAYED!!!

Ramadan in Amman

Well, Ramadan is over! al hamdulileh.

What can I say about Ramadan? – the holiest month in Islam, during which most Muslims fast from food, water, coffee, smoking… you name it. Fasting begins with the dawn prayer and finishes as the adhan sounds for the sunset prayer. Families gather together and wait patiently for the adhan, then have iftar – the breaking of the fast. From that moment (usually around 7:45) until dawn, people stay up late with their friends and families, eating and celebrating together. Sahour, the last meal before the next day’s fast, comes shortly before dawn – at 3:00 or 4:00 in the morning. Needless to say, there’s not much sleeping during Ramadan.

Ramadan completely changes the city: ranging from a shortened workday (8:30 to 2:30), to a lack of social life/cafes open during the day to late Ramadan nights always finished by fireworks.

 

For me, I experienced Ramadan in two ways: as a foreigner and as a volunteer.

 

First of all – as a foreigner. Every day I felt like I was basically fasting. With 99% of the population Muslim, eating in public was out of the question. Nadine and I would go to work, realize we forgot to pack a lunch, then remember that there’s no food anywhere in the office. Khalas, I guess we’re “fasting” today. There were multiple days of purchasing a twix bar between work and going to the OWA, then ducking down a random alley to eat it. #ramadanproblems. Technically, its against the law to eat in public during Ramadan. Besides, even if it wasn’t – its just respectful to refrain from doing so. At night, after iftar, as I drank my bottle of water in a taxi or nibbled on snack as I walked home, I always caught myself heaving a sigh: “I looove eating in public.”

My friend Kait – preparing an iftar for us and some of our students. Note: I helped!

There were, of course, always funny moments too. For example, when I went to Wael’s house during the day and everyone kept trying to feed me. No matter how much I explained that I didn’t want to eat out of respect – and besides, I’m not hungry! – they kept offering and offering (“this isn’t your religion, you don’t need to fast!”)… at one moment Wael’s mom told him to leave the room so I could “eat and not feel shy.”

Me, trying to grill meat — Ban, trying to show me how

Its not that us foreigners are alone in these “Ramadan woes.” In fact, many of my friends were not fasting – in particular the other volunteers from Baqaa at the OWA. They are all Muslim, but for various reasons chose not to fast. Some don’t because they are not particularly religious; some only fasted on days that they weren’t busy (can you imagine being in class half a day then at work until iftar without food or water?). I learned quickly that when the office door at the OWA was shut it meant that volunteers were inside – drinking coffee or smoking.

Second all – as a volunteer. The OWA was busier than I’ve ever seen it during Ramadan. I had heard stories of Ramadan (“we work every day, all day”) but to see it in action was something else. During the month of Ramadan, the OWA had 3-5 iftars a week for the kids. It all depended on donations – someone would fund us or host us, then we would organize activities for the kids and take them out to break the fast. It was really telling that on the first night of Ramadan – the night you’d expect everyone to be with their families – we brought 100 children to iftar with the OWA and their donor. Thanks to the OWA, these orphans get to have a Ramadan that feels special too.

Ahmad and I debating the best dance move to correspond with Knaan’s “Wave Your Flag” – which we performed for donors at one of the big iftars

The OWA also used donations to purchase clothing for each child. After Ramadan, there is a four-day celebration called “Eid.” It’s a little like Christmas in that families gather and give their children presents – usually new Eid clothes. For the orphans, their families cannot afford such gifts. Therefore the center takes the kids out throughout Ramadan and gives them money to purchase a new outfit; last week we gave all the children these gifts. Over Eid, they dressed in their new clothes just like all the other kids.

Little Ban singing in front of her (much older) peers at one of the iftars

It probably goes without saying that the OWA is what made Ramadan special for me. Those kids really had a great month — thanks to the hard work of committed volunteers — and I, in turn, did too. So khalas even though I have had enough of Ramadan for next year, I do hope I’m in the region to experience another one in the future.

Hungry little ones waiting for the adhan in order to eat their iftar!

Above and below:

Abu Ghasem and I amusing the little shebab before going out for an iftar

Rama riding on a carousel after we were hosted by an amusement park for iftar!

Biff and Julie & Ban and Jeelan

I feel like I haven’t written anything personal lately. I hear Katy in my head laughing at how many news/political/humanitarian tinged things I have posted on this blog – thus I figured I’d take a minute to talk about two of my favorite – and smallest – friends in Jordan.

In Baqa’a, Biff and I have found a home with our friend Wael and his family. In particular, his two nieces, Ban and Jeelan, have become like our little sisters.

Jeelan is two years old, and over the year we’ve known the family, she’s literally grown up right before our eyes. Now she’s talking and sassing us left and right. Seen below, she demonstrates every possible use of a telephone. If you can imagine her little high pitched voice in the last photo, alo? meen ma3ee? 

Ban, her older sister, just turned 5. Yet from the way she talks, you’d think she’s much older. We die laughing when she tells us stories — she always begins with, “Lemma ana kunt sagrera… When I was little…” — BAN you’re FIVE!

Nonetheless sometimes we do forget how small she is because she’s so smart. She loves to learn, and everyone is always teaching her something new. Often Biff and I will be sitting talking and Ban will walk up to us “Darrisuunee ingleezee!… Teach me English!” She’s even starting tossing English into her sentences when she talks.

A few weeks ago, we were all at the mall and Ban’s dad wanted her to stay in the car with him so we could shop quickly. Ban, who knows exactly how to get what she wants, looked at me pleadingly.. “Miss Julie, ma biddi adul bil CAR….. Miss Julie, I don’t want to stay in the CAR!”

The best part of this is that the two girls consider us to be their friends. Ban introduces me to her cousin: “This is my friend… Miss Julie.”

The girls sit and play with us during our whole visit, distracting us from adult conversation (“Mom, she is MY friend.”) with games, songs, and drawings. And of course, Biff and I love it. In fact we’ve learned loads of great Arabic games from the two girls… ikabaruu! … see below at the Children’s museum.

Who would have thought two of our best new friends in Jordan would be under the age of five? And the rest of them would consist of 100 six to fifteen year olds at the Orphan Welfare Association?

Oh well, at least we have each other! See attractive teaching photo below.

A New Adventure

I alluded recently to my new work (with aforementioned roommate Nadine) but have yet to elaborate. So, as a minor life update, we are working with the International Organization for Migration (IOM). I started volunteering with them during my Fulbright and am now working full time in the Public Information department. Its been a great experience, and IOM is a wonderful organization doing important work all over the world.

Our corner of this organization is IOM-Iraq, which is remotely based in Amman but works in Iraq to assist internally displaced people, returnees, and local host communities. Its been a great learning experience for me, as someone who previously knew little about the situation in Iraq. The situation there is complicated and remains dire; organizations like IOM are making a big difference on the ground to help people whose communities are in need and whose security remains fragile.

IOM-Iraq has also been helping Syrian refugees in Iraq. Iraq is not the first place people think of when reflecting on the Syrian crisis, yet at present UNHCR estimates over 160,000 Syrians have fled there. Resources are stretched, and there is great need.

The largest camp is Domiz Camp, in Dahuk governorate of Iraqi Kurdistan. Nadine recently visited this camp as well as Erbil governorate to collect material about IOM’s response to the Syrian crisis. Thereafter, IOM produced a report about the response — You can read it and see photos from the field here on IOM’s website: Relief Beyond Immediate Needs

Nadine also has been documenting the stories of IOM beneficiaries. They are beautiful and inspiring films, which I am excited to share with you. Check out the first one here, and the rest will be up soon on IOM’s YouTube.

So, al muhim, I have been really happy in this new work, learning about a new corner of the Middle East, and contributing to a new organization’s humanitarian efforts. Its also worth saying, that of course, nothing I write is representative of IOM and all reflects my own opinions. However you can learn more about the important work IOM is doing by following IOM here on Facebook or checking out IOM Iraq’s website here!

Girl Talk is my small game.

You all know Nadine in some way or the other. I’ve either rambled about her in stories over skype or posted her videos and quotes on various social media plaforms. Nadine has officially filled many roles in my life: confidante, roommate, best friend. Sometimes I feel like if I think something, and I don’t say it out loud to Nadine, its almost like I didn’t think it.

Most recently, we added a new relationship to the list: colleagues! Yes, that’s right – we now work together too. In fact for the last 2 months, we both shared one desk because office space was tight. Really, the best way to illustrate our relationship would be the following story: Nadine, skyping with a friend from home, introduces me. “This is Julie. She’s…..(my friend? my roommate? my colleague?)…..She’s like my arm.”

Anyway, al muhim is that Nadine has so many wise words – I could start a whole other blog cataloguing all of them. She’s a self proclaimed sap ( “Its ok to feel.” ) and has the biggest heart of anyone I know.

And as mentioned above, girl talk is her small game. I figured I would share one of her best quotes – the one she always tosses out as we deal with the ups and downs of life abroad – relationships – work – decisions – and of course, the future.

 

 

 

 

 

You can read more wise words from Nadine here:  http://theviewfromamman.wordpress.com/

I’ve been having a lot of fun this year

Two Fulbright best friends – head to head jump rope.

Disclaimer: Biff had a broken foot but still wanted to play.

Note: I won.

 

Closer Together

Megan came to visit me in Jordan.

Two best friends, reunited, on an adventure.

It was actually the best week, ever.

“May your adventures bring you closer together,

even as they take you far away from home.”

 

 

Now I’m left missing Megan and looking towards a new countdown…

Jackie arrives July 31st!

Amman better get ready for a set of Whittaker sisters to hit the town!