Radiant

Radiant.

That’s actually the only word to describe how absolutely beautiful Nisreen was at her engagement party last weekend.
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It was an amazing evening.. and she looked so happy with her fiance, Musa – who I met for the first time (aside from Skype hellos) last week. He is a great guy and they are adorable together.
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Above, posing for the camera –>  “i7na bidna eyaha… wa hou bidu eyaha”

Below, me and Marah – easily one of my best new friends from this year in Jordan. “My student” turned friend :)
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This was a really special engagement party because Nisreen is one of my best friends.. I’ve been to a handful of engagement parties/weddings in Jordan and in the States; yet this is the first one for a best friend. It is of course, all the more beautiful.

Plus, this time I had responsibilities! Responsibilities that I would have never imagined undertaking in any other circumstance.. Really, it was comical to have Nisreen turn to me as an “engagement party planner” – ba3rifish! – i actually can’t imagine someone who knows less about these things than me. YET, for her.. I said yes to everything.

Really, it just follows that general trend where I do random things here … and usually receive great compliments … even though in general these things are the OPPOSITE of “who I am” in the States. ( example: Julie! You are such a good dancer. …. Julie! You have a beautiful voice ). It just goes to show if you do things with enough confidence/gusto… people just believe that you must be good at. ( Well, she is singing in front of the class.. she MUST have a good voice ).

So anyway, here were the two big / random contributions…

1) Can you make a unique guest book for me?

—> Of course! I am so creative… #thingsineverthoughtiddoinamman

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2) Can you choreograph and perform a dance for me?

—> Of course! That sounds easy and right up my alley. #thingsineverthoughtiddoinamman

See below clip of 1/2 of our dance. If you were wondering, yes we did dance to Pit Bull. And yes, we did pull her cousins onto the dance floor. And yes, the freestyle bit of the song was later done with a strobe light.

#thingsineverthoughtiddoinamman

Graduation!

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Petra University Graduation!

I went with my friend, Ghada, a former UNRWA co-worker. Her daughter, Dina, is amazing and just graduated from none other than Petra University!

 

 

 

 

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I went with Ghada and her family to cheer Dina on as she received her degree in Pharmacy!

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The graduation was similar to ours… yet at the same time very different.

 

 

Since I am too tired to detail any of this now.. check out the side photo (imagine lots of honking and swerving down the road)

 

 

 

And check out the below video… of the main ceremony.

As context, this video is after the graduates have entered and sat down — but before the graduation officially started. Anyway, quite different!

IMG 1729 from Julie Whittaker on Vimeo.

 

80’s Night

Yes, that’s right. 80’s night.

Truly you can find everything and ANYTHING in Amman. Every Wednesday is 80’s Night at “Cube” – a bar here in Amman. So… of course, we went.

Never have I ever seen a more comical scene: a mix of jordanians, middle aged expats, and 6 Fulbright girls ( #us ) dancing away to “go, grease lightening, go grease lightening” – “everybody cut loose, footloose” – “i get knocked down, but i get up again…” Then of course, random Spanish songs (i have never heard the song “ole ole” been played anywhere but a soccer game.. until tonight) AND Arabic songs (everyone went crazy).

The cover was 10 JD, expensive! Yet it covered a drink and was more than worth it for the 4 hours of dancing. We left before the bar closed (presently 3am)… open later than Boston! Plus we got to scope out a whole new scene … looking around we kept wondering, who ARE these people? regular 80’s night attenders? what are you doing in Amman?? I can only imagine there were a lot of interesting stories in the crowd.

Too bad we were busy dancing.

 

Winter Camp in Aqaba: Baqaa Orphan Welfare Association

This week is the Winter Camp for the Orphan Welfare Association (OWA) – the organization where I volunteer on the weekends (you may remember my past stories of crazy yet adorable 4 to 10 year olds?).

The annual Winter Camp is a week-long program in Aqaba for nearly 80 boys, orphans who live in Baqaa Refugee Camp. The girls of the OWA have never participated in the past, with the far-away sleepover trip viewed as too difficult for this conservative community. HOWEVER thanks to the dedication of the volunteers, who insisted upon making it possible for the girls (and, might I add, are also 80% men who themselves live in Baqaa Camp), a two-day program was hosted for the first time for 24 girls, ranging from 4 to 14 years old.

And…. I got to chaperone!

In two days, we visited Petra, toured Wadi Rum, had a 7fla (party) in a Bedouin Camp, took a boat tour of Aqaba, visited Aqaba’s museum and aquarium, and played on the beach. It was the first time any of the girls had gone to these places — the most famous places in Jordan. Needless to say, it was actually the best time ever.

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There were 4 of us volunteers leading the girls and I really can’t even explain how much fun I had in only 48 hours. Instead, I will just share anecdotes/insights/ramble a bit.

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1) Cross-cultural exchange: “Miss Mary Mack”

Pre-trip, I spent awhile trying to remember what exactly I did as a child. I usually end up having to Google the details (what are the hand motions to go with B-I-N-G-O?). This time, I was focused on camp songs and games. As it turns out, the BEST thing I did was take the time to practice “Miss Mary Mack.”

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I taught some girls the game within the first 15 minutes of our 4 hour long bus ride to Petra… and I am not joking when I tell you that I played it almost a million times since that moment. I played with every single girl… I played every time we were on the bus… I played every time we paused a minute in between programs… I taught the song to girls so they could play themselves… I improvised to make it a 4 person game… I will NEVER forget that song. If that’s my only contribution to cross-cultural exchange, so be it.

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2) Cultural difference: Arabic 7eflas aka Arabic Parties

I could not get over the fact that despite being SO similar to our camps in many ways, there were still cultural influences that make them different.

My favorite difference is the “Arabic party.”

What does that mean? Let me explain through example..

(A) We arrive at a Bedouin Camp in Wadi Rum and before dinner is our “party.” This means that we all go to an open space, someone starts playing arabic music, and we all dance. Some dance dabke (traditional Arabic dance) in a big circle; some dance in small groups; boys put their friends on their shoulders and dance around; small girls are tossed in the air laughing. Everyone has a ball.

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(B) We are waiting for our boat in Aqaba, with about 30 min to kill. Someone brings out the drum again.. first the girls have their turn; we sing Arabic songs and dance .. then the boys, who chant and dance even more than we do. Whats also worth noting is that many of the kids know how to play and ALL of them have the traditional songs committed to memory.

(C) We get on our boat for Aqaba. Its been described as a “2 hour tour” of the Red Sea. The kids are only supposed to sit in their seats and look out at the water – because they are little/a big group and we’re nervous for them. What does it turn into? 2 hours of blasting Arabic music with everyone up dancing and singing together.

and finally,

(D) We’re on our way home. Supposedly tired from our whirlwind trip. Then the bus driver turns on the music… and all of a sudden: there go the girls, swinging their hips, hands raised and twirling in the air, imitating their best belly dancing moves.

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It is actually WAY more fun and carefree than most similar things I’ve done in the States… which is funny because I feel like often people think they “won’t like the culture” in this particular corner of the world… or that it is too conversative and by extension, boring… and simply, that is not true.

PS. I wish I had any photos or videos of these parties… but I was too busy DANCING.

 

3) Universal value: Making children happy

The people involved with this organization are easily some of the best people I know. All the volunteers and children are truly a big family. These kids are facing a hard life.. without a tactful way of saying it: they are refugees, poor, and on top of all that, lost either their father – mother – or both. Yet they find so much love with this Association.

All the girls held each others’ hands as we strolled through the Aqaba market – me and my group slept like spoons with our three beds pushed together – each girl offered everyone on the bus a bite of every snack they open – Huthafa and Hamzeh carried the two littlest sisters on their shoulders for 75% of the trip – the girls “self” disciplined their group (come on Rania, 3ab, Miss said its time for bed) with the older taking care of the younger, regardless of whose actually related – and really, it was impossible to form a single-file line when all the girls just want to walk holding “Miss”‘s hand.

One bus ride, two sisters fell asleep and spent the whole ride snuggled under my arms and in my lap as I hummed quietly to them. I couldn’t help but think to myself: I feel like I have kids… and really, how lucky I am to find a family like this here in Jordan.

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Why I plan to have an Arabic Bachelorette Party

Because today I went with Nisreen, Alaa (her sister), and her mom to their cousin Sherine’s “bridal shower” and it was AMAZING!

 

Basically, their “bridal shower” is like an engagement party for the bride — and somewhat equivalent to a bachelorette party… with lots of cultural differences :)

 

1) Its all women — which means that women wear wild and short dresses – “bejanin” (beautiful!) – and get their hair done. Women who wear a hijab or robe normally get all dolled up in party clothes that look just like ours! *The hijab/modest clothing is worn only around men who are not part of your family; one does not wear a hijab at a party that is all women. So looking around, it looked just like one of our dances! But no men!

 

2) And its not just friends / young family members.. ALL the women you care about come. The age range was from Nisreen’s grandmother to a 2 year old cousin who sat on a maid’s lap hiding from the loud music (NOTE: Jordan has a “maid culture” – more about that another time).

 

3) ALL we did was dance. Literally, we arrived… we all got changed from our normal clothes (and hijab for some) into fancy dresses… then the DJ started playing music SO LOUD like we were in a club (we were in Sherin’s home – though it was decorated like a hotel)… and everyone immediately started dancing. and didn’t stop! from 5pm to 10pm. Plus I LOVE arabic dancing. Everyone seemed to think I was good at it — which just goes to show that dancing just takes effort, not skill.

 

On the one hand, it was so different from the States.. because when do we dance without boys? But on the other hand, I thought about how me and my friends from home always get dressed up and go to a bar… and then dance with each other in a circle, shunning all creepy men who approach. THIS is literally the same thing, but you cut out the need to even deal with shutting men out!

 

As for the playlist… it was all great arabic music, except for some good American songs slipped in, plus the macarena! Comical!

 

4) The bride is the center of attention.. FOR REAL.

Literally the party revolves around the bride. Which is true at any similar party… but uniquely done here. Basically the room was set up with circles in a big circle and everyone would dance in the middle. But when Sherine, the bride, came out – she always danced by herself for a bit, then we joined and clapped for her (ex: as she shakes her hips, we clap at her hips, and do a fun arabic yell “aaiiiiwaaahhh!” – translation “oooww oowww”). She did this a bunch —> she had 5 different entrances and 5 different dances and 5 different dresses:

 

1) white dress

2) egyptian dress – the beaded skirt that is associated with belly dancers – Sherine, AND NISREEN, did a great belly dance style routine as their entrance :)

 

3) a pink cocktail dress

4)  an indian dress —> this struck me as strange, but it was beautiful! They put on a fast indian pop song and Sherine had a traditional Indian outfit.. then did an Indian style dance (we all joined her!)

5) a traditional Palestinian robe — beautiful :)

 

So yea, needless to say – CENTER of attention, given so much love and attention and honor —> which is exactly the idea of a bridal shower!

 

As a note, this is also one reason why Jordanians // Arabs in general find marriage so expensive – the wife “should” be able to afford this traditional style of celebration!

 
So….. yeah! Basically, I had the best time ever. I love Arabic music, Arabic dancing, Arabic bridal showers, and Nisreen’s family.
 
 
 
Therefore —–> all my future bridesmaids, girl friends, and family… get excited. This is what is in store for us. (Sorry Dad / future husband)